Mercato Trionfale

Friday, July 11, 2025

Mercato Trionfale

Do you like Farmer’s markets and artisanal shops? Do you like having 25-30 vendors to choose from? Would you like more? How about 246 vendors, all indoors! Do you prefer shopping out of the hot, hot, hot sun? If so, welcome to Mercato Trionfale! The mercato is a yuuuuuge market of small independent businesses, who rent space from the Mercato. With 246 shops (they are numbered: there may be more but that was the highest number I saw), there’s plenty to buy. Plus, well over half the merchants have plastic bags because they hate turtles, or something. I find them handy for small amounts of trash. I carry my little shopping bag (from our Local YMCA) in my satchel, so I have it if I drop into a store.

Where is it? In Roma, Italy. If you want more precise, it’s slightly north of Vatican city; you walk along the outer wall of the Vatican to get there from St. Peter’s square. It’s also about 10 minutes from the Ottaviano stop on Line A.

Katie is experiencing some health issues with the heat; she’s gonna go see a doctor upon her return. So, because she is worth it, I have her take cabs on anything over a 10 minute walk (It’s 10 minutes to the bus stop, 15 to the metro line). She downloaded an app for hailing taxis (which is really severe weather when you think about it), but for some reason it didn’t work. So she and Jen were over 37 minutes late to the Mercato. I myself was 7 minutes early. 😀 It was supposed to be a 46-minute walk for me, so I left myself 55 minutes to get there. I showed 3x more responsibility than I normally do!

Big jugs: Photo by Jay Janney

While waiting for Katie and Jen I meandered through the stalls, just seeing what they had. The Mercator is laid out like a chess board (64 squares), but larger. One walks up and down rows, browsing shops. Before they arrived I found a giant can of extra virgin olive oil. I think Sean (P. Diddy) Combs might be able to get an endorsement for that. Katie told me he uses baby oil: how was I to know? Later, Jen bought a smaller bottle of the stuff for her son-in-law: “for cooking” she tells me. 😏

Da Big Cheese! Photo by Jay Janney

You know what I noticed most of all about it? The smell. There are thousands of cheeses in there, some of them whole, and some where the merchant has been busy cutting the cheese, into wedges. The aroma is powerful. I could smell the individual Gelato for sale (a smaller shop, only 25 flavors). Three shops in a row selling fresh baked bread. Fruit stands everywhere. Fresh lettuce, and more carrots than Bugs Bunny could eat in a two hour movie. I saw a meat counter selling steak, and it must have weighed 60 pounds! The butcher cuts off however much you want. I saw fish counters, plus a poultry counter. It was there I found the biggest chicken I have ever seen! That appears to weight more than my luggage at the airport! I sent a picture to Katie and Jen; wisely I refrained from saying it had a bigger butt than either of theirs! Hey, I may be oblivious, but I am not stupid! Okay, not completely stupid. 🤪

That is a big chicken! Photo by Jay Janney

I found one disturbing issue in the Mercato. Some of the stalls practice cannibalism! 😬 Yes, it is true! I (to borrow a Jonah phrase) defecate you negatory! There was a shop where they have apparently kidnapped famed Hollywood actor Joe Pesce, and they butchered him. They have a little drawing showing his head cut off, and the rest of his body cut into easily half a dozen pieces! Can you believe they are selling him for grilling out? Although you could boil, steam or pan fry him; I’m not judging you. I told Katie and Jen it sure seemed fishy they’d be allowed to do that in a public market. 🙄 THWOCK! Katie rolled her eyes so hard it scared 8 birds out of the Mercato (the doors are open). We wandered on, through many more rows.

Why Joe Pesce hasn't been making movies in awhile. RIP Photo by Jay Janney

Some of the stalls sell prepared meals. There is a Thai street food stall, next to some other food ones. They have a few tables; you order, sit down, and eat. Jen wanted to try a sandwich, so we found her an egg salad sandwich, with rich tomatoes, cheeses, etc. She said it was good; only €5 (euros). We also found a cookie shop, where I ordered a “Meringue Grande”, which looked like the top of a Muslim mosque, but all white. It crunched good. Jen was amazed four cookies (including mine) were only €1.49 (less than $2 US). Katie didn’t order anything as the heat was bothering her. We walked to St. peter’s square, stopping at two nasone along the way, so she could run cold water over her skin, that helped.

One of many counters counter where they cut the cheese. Photo by Jay Janney

We had Katie and Jen take a taxi home, while I walked: I cut four minutes from my time, proving a) I like to walk a lot and b) I am stupid. They rested up, and Katie did better today. She apologized to Jen for ruining her vacation, and we laughed it off. Jen is enjoying the sites, sounds, and smells. One final thought: if you want fresh food, this has it. The selection is better than any of the grocery chains, and mostly cheaper as well. Plus if you ever need €66 worth of extra virgin olive oil, you won’t find it in Carrefour Express!